Jill Shapiro-Duran
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Bouchon... A Parisian delight in an illuminating setting.

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Located at Venetian's luxurious Venezia tower is Bouchon, the Napa Valley import by renowned chef/owner Thomas Keller. Their sister restaurant is a veritable institution with a loyal cult following. Now with firmly planted roots here in Las Vegas, Bouchon continues to serve up bistro fare in the classic genre deeply steeped in tradition.
 
Bouchon was designed after the original Bouchon’s of Lyon France under the watchful eye of acclaimed restaurant designer Adam Tihany. More like a brasserie than a quaint bistro, the 7,000 sq. ft. dining room is spectacular—soaring Palladian windows, antique sconce lighting, deep blue velvet banquettes, vibrant mosaic floors, marble-topped tables and beautiful French doors leading out to the patio. The custom-designed French pewter bar is perfect for before dinner cocktails or perhaps a little Lillet as an aperitif.
 
The cuisine at Bouchon is the antithesis of the eponymous Vegas buffet boasting a carefully planned, refined menu. Their “Fruits De Mar” is the perfect starter, as is showcased in their sharable Petite or Grand Plateau—pristine, abundant selections of crustaceans including bright red lobster, silvery-grey oysters, briny clams and sweet mussels served with pungent cocktail sauce and classic tangy-sweet mignonette. Bouchon also offers caviar service, served with traditional accoutrements and toasted brioche or Fromage de Jour—a selection of cow, goat and sheep artisanal cheeses.  
 
Salads are simple and artfully composed. The Mixed Field Greens with red wine vinaigrette warm, creamy goat cheese and floral Herbs de Provence was nicely balanced, as was the buttery Bibb lettuce with garden herbs lightly dressed in a dijon vinaigrette. Tarragon took center stage here, leaving a distinct anise trail on the palate.
 
Entrees epitomize the French bistro concept. Of course there is the classic Steak Frites and Trout Amandine—pan-roasted trout bathed in brown butter and accompanied by crispy slivered almond-topped haricot verts. The Roasted Leg of Lamb is served with due ceremony, a ragout of Coco Beans, Pequillo Peppers, Merguez Sausage and Lamb Jus—a genial nod to Spain. The Maine Bouchet mussels are a good standby, simmered in a white wine, mustard and saffron broth.
 
It is requisite to order dessert at Bouchon. The Profiteroles are solid, with a delicate and light puff pastry dough sandwiching creamy, rich vanilla ice cream doused with Valrhona chocolate sauce. The Pots de Creme is luscious and sublime, showcasing silky, smooth custard with an orange infusion.
 
Bouchons’ wine list is superlative, with a focus on popular French varietals. Try the mineral-rich Muscadet Melon de Bourgogne from the Loire Valley, or the young 2005 Nicolas Rossignol Pinot Noir from Burgundy.
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Jill L. Shapiro-Duran
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